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Per Se

Oct. 16th, 2009 12:26 pm
topaz: (strawberry)
[personal profile] topaz
So I went to New York to eat at Per Se. [livejournal.com profile] omegabeth was in the city on business this week, and had arranged a reservation for five at Per Se to coincide with it, so that [livejournal.com profile] jacflash and I could join her and two of her West Coast friends. On Wednesday morning, John and I hopped a train to NYC, met Beth at her hotel a few hours ahead of time, spent some time walking around midtown, changed into nice clothes and headed up to Columbus Circle.

Embarrassing note of the day: I wore a tie but did not bring a jacket, as I no longer own one which fits me well. The staff had to offer me one. I don't think I have ever eaten at a restaurant which required a dinner jacket.

Oysters and Pearls: "Sabayon" of Pearl Tapioca with Island Creek Oysters and Sterling White Sturgeon Caviar

Terrine of Hudson Valley Moulard Duck Foie Gras: Purple Top Turnip "Parisienne," Granny Smith Apple Relish, Candied Walnuts, Frisée Lettuce and Cherry Balsamic Vinegar with Toasted Brioche

Crispy Skin Fillet of Florida Red Snapper: Ruby Crescent Potato Ravioli, Shaved Meyer Lemon, Greenmarket Potatoes and Watercress with Crushed Caper-Brown Butter Vinaigrette

Butter Poached Nova Scotia Lobster: Violet Artichokes, Crosnes, Fennel Bulb "Bátons" and Petite Chervil with "Barigoule" Emulsion

Liberty Farm's Pekin Duck Breast: Glazed Salsify, Water Spinach and Chestnut Purée with "Sauce d'Épices"

Snake River Farms' "Calotte de Bœuf Grillée": Slow Roasted Young Beets, Parsnip Mousse and Celery Branch Salad with Ruby Beet Essence

"La Serena": Applewood Smoked Bacon Melba, Brussels Sprout Leaves, Red Wine Braised Cabbage and Pickled Carrots with Caraway Seed "Aigre-Doux"

Pear Sorbet: "Silver Dollar" Pancakes, Bosc Pear Compote, Anise "Bavarois" and Almond Crisp

"Tea and Biscuits": "Millionaire's Shortbread", Sweet Tea Panna Cotta and Chocolate "Crémeux" with Darjeeling Ice Cream


The oysters and pearls: a sabayon is like a denser, more custardy zabaglione, and in this dish it was a savory, lemony custard in which were suspended the oysters, tapioca and caviar.  Really lovely.

Foie gras: very intense, deep flavor, but gloriously balanced by sweet and salty flavors all over the place.  This was served with an extremely thin, almost translucent disk of something that none of us could identify.  Maybe it was the purple top turnip Parisienne?

Lobster: I do not generally like either lobster or artichokes.  These were spectacular.  The lobster was both firm and tender.  The violet artichokes were tiny and very flavorful.

Duck.  The duck was so firm and rich that it looked, cut and felt exactly like the beef course that followed.  Only when you put it in your mouth did you get the duck flavor out of it.  Amazing.

Pear sorbet: this must be the purest sorbet I have ever had.  It was just like taking a bite from a very cold and tender pear, although no pear in the world is quite that soft.  It did not taste like a sorbet at all and hardly felt like one.

We had the sommelier bring us wine pairings for most courses, but I'm too tired to type in the full wine list.  Maybe another day.  One of the amazing things about dining in a restaurant like this is that when the sommelier overhears you talking about the structure of the glass you're drinking from, she can tell you something useful and interesting about how the glasses themselves are made, like the fact that the bowl, stem and base are made by three different artisans and fit together after the fact.  Fantastic.

Anyway.  It was magnificent and spellbinding and you should go if your budget ever permits you to do so.

Date: 2009-10-16 05:02 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] missionista.livejournal.com
Still drooling. Haven't stopped since you mentioned the words Per Se. Mmmmm, this sounds so good.

Date: 2009-10-16 05:23 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] prilicla.livejournal.com
Wow, that sounds great!

Date: 2009-10-16 05:28 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] creidylad.livejournal.com
For your next super-expensive culinary outing in NYC I would like to recommend Picholine -- or Artisinal, which is slightly less expensive, and is their sister café. I say this as I dimly recall some mention of your being a cheese lover, and they have the BEST CHEESE TRAY EVER. Seriously.

Date: 2009-10-16 05:44 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] queenmomcat.livejournal.com
On the plus side, the food sounds amazing.

Date: 2009-10-16 07:39 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] rsc.livejournal.com
Sounds delicious and delightful.

As seems to be usual with restaurants, however, their website sucks. Somebody needs to tell their web designer that a website isn't a movie, and when I click on a link I don't want to have to wait through an artistic "unfolding" before there's any actual information available.

having checked out the web site

Date: 2009-10-16 08:34 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] queenmomcat.livejournal.com
On the down side, it's got correspondingly amazing prices...and not in a good way. (no wonder--they're affiliated with "The French Laundry") I'm with [livejournal.com profile] rsc: I think the high end web sites like that are just annoying.

Re: having checked out the web site

Date: 2009-10-16 08:51 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] jacflash.livejournal.com
They aren't "affiliated" so much as they're the other half of TFL. The kitchens are connected by video link, they share recipes, and from all reports they provide a very similar experience.

FWIW, there are more expensive places to eat in NYC. I don't know that there are better ones, though.

Re: having checked out the web site

Date: 2009-10-16 08:57 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] keyne.livejournal.com
You think that's bad, the wine prices are even higher than the food :)

Re: having checked out the web site

Date: 2009-10-16 11:01 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] queenmomcat.livejournal.com
I bet they are; restaurant wine is always jacked up to stratospheric levels.

Re: having checked out the web site

Date: 2009-10-16 11:10 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] queenmomcat.livejournal.com
I'm sure there are more expensive restaurants in NYC; this is why I don't live there. (to put "expensive" in perspective, dinner for five at Per Se would take essentially all of two weeks's pay for me...without wine.)

Re: having checked out the web site

Date: 2009-10-17 02:57 am (UTC)
ext_86356: (glow-tini)
From: [identity profile] qwrrty.livejournal.com
The wine prices are not higher than the food!

We spent exactly as much on wine as we did on food.

(Oy.)

Date: 2009-10-17 02:58 am (UTC)
ext_86356: (Default)
From: [identity profile] qwrrty.livejournal.com
The website is barbaric. But please don't judge them!

Date: 2009-10-17 02:58 am (UTC)
ext_86356: (Default)
From: [identity profile] qwrrty.livejournal.com
Cheese tray!!

Okay, that's gotta go on the list.

Date: 2009-10-17 02:59 am (UTC)
ext_86356: (cartoon)
From: [identity profile] qwrrty.livejournal.com
I feel strangely confident that you would love it. :-)

Date: 2009-10-17 04:55 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] rsc.livejournal.com
Oh, I don't. As I said, most restaurant websites are crap. If I held it against them, I'd never eat out.

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