Per Se

[topaz]

So I went to New York to eat at Per Se. omegabeth was in the city on business this week, and had arranged a reservation for five at Per Se to coincide with it, so that jacflash and I could join her and two of her West Coast friends. On Wednesday morning, John and I hopped a train to NYC, met Beth at her hotel a few hours ahead of time, spent some time walking around midtown, changed into nice clothes and headed up to Columbus Circle.

Embarrassing note of the day: I wore a tie but did not bring a jacket, as I no longer own one which fits me well. The staff had to offer me one. I don't think I have ever eaten at a restaurant which required a dinner jacket.

Oysters and Pearls: "Sabayon" of Pearl Tapioca with Island Creek Oysters and Sterling White Sturgeon Caviar

Terrine of Hudson Valley Moulard Duck Foie Gras: Purple Top Turnip "Parisienne," Granny Smith Apple Relish, Candied Walnuts, Frisée Lettuce and Cherry Balsamic Vinegar with Toasted Brioche

Crispy Skin Fillet of Florida Red Snapper: Ruby Crescent Potato Ravioli, Shaved Meyer Lemon, Greenmarket Potatoes and Watercress with Crushed Caper-Brown Butter Vinaigrette

Butter Poached Nova Scotia Lobster: Violet Artichokes, Crosnes, Fennel Bulb "Bátons" and Petite Chervil with "Barigoule" Emulsion

Liberty Farm's Pekin Duck Breast: Glazed Salsify, Water Spinach and Chestnut Purée with "Sauce d'Épices"

Snake River Farms' "Calotte de Bœuf Grillée": Slow Roasted Young Beets, Parsnip Mousse and Celery Branch Salad with Ruby Beet Essence

"La Serena": Applewood Smoked Bacon Melba, Brussels Sprout Leaves, Red Wine Braised Cabbage and Pickled Carrots with Caraway Seed "Aigre-Doux"

Pear Sorbet: "Silver Dollar" Pancakes, Bosc Pear Compote, Anise "Bavarois" and Almond Crisp

"Tea and Biscuits": "Millionaire's Shortbread", Sweet Tea Panna Cotta and Chocolate "Crémeux" with Darjeeling Ice Cream


The oysters and pearls: a sabayon is like a denser, more custardy zabaglione, and in this dish it was a savory, lemony custard in which were suspended the oysters, tapioca and caviar.  Really lovely.

Foie gras: very intense, deep flavor, but gloriously balanced by sweet and salty flavors all over the place.  This was served with an extremely thin, almost translucent disk of something that none of us could identify.  Maybe it was the purple top turnip Parisienne?

Lobster: I do not generally like either lobster or artichokes.  These were spectacular.  The lobster was both firm and tender.  The violet artichokes were tiny and very flavorful.

Duck.  The duck was so firm and rich that it looked, cut and felt exactly like the beef course that followed.  Only when you put it in your mouth did you get the duck flavor out of it.  Amazing.

Pear sorbet: this must be the purest sorbet I have ever had.  It was just like taking a bite from a very cold and tender pear, although no pear in the world is quite that soft.  It did not taste like a sorbet at all and hardly felt like one.

We had the sommelier bring us wine pairings for most courses, but I'm too tired to type in the full wine list.  Maybe another day.  One of the amazing things about dining in a restaurant like this is that when the sommelier overhears you talking about the structure of the glass you're drinking from, she can tell you something useful and interesting about how the glasses themselves are made, like the fact that the bowl, stem and base are made by three different artisans and fit together after the fact.  Fantastic.

Anyway.  It was magnificent and spellbinding and you should go if your budget ever permits you to do so.

Comments

[missionista.livejournal.com]

Still drooling. Haven't stopped since you mentioned the words Per Se. Mmmmm, this sounds so good.

[qwrrty.livejournal.com]

I feel strangely confident that you would love it. :-)